Production of KHADDAR at Ponduru
The weavers of Ponduru have retained their skills of weaving on a handspun warp, creating the wonderful khaddar fabrics. Hand-spun and hand-woven fabrics have a distinct tactile character, unmatched in mechanised production. The beauty is in its inherent irregularity. Handspun yarn is delicate and needs the sensitive touch of human hands to manipulate the warp and weft, and best suited for pitloom. It requires great skill and a lot of patience to weave on a delicate handspun warp. The low twist of the handspun yarn unravels marginally every time the fabric is washed giving a softness and wonderful drape, unmatched in fabrics created by highly twisted yarns.
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Preparing a warp, especially with handspun yarn is most crucial, when done properly, it becomes easier for the weaver to weave the khaddar fabric without the warp threads snapping. Sizing the warp threads is unique to the handloom production., It helps align and strengthen the warp threads for weaving. In Ponduru, work begins very early in the morning when the air is cool and there is a balance in the moisture levels so that the humidity keeps the warp threads from breaking easily.
Two warps each of 36 metres are stretched together across bamboo poles. They spray watery rice starch and brush the warp. This process is repeated 50 to 80 times depending on the quality and count of the yarn, and the brush is cleaned with coconut oil at intervals. This is done on one side and then the whole warp is turned around and the process is repeated so that the starch water seeps into the fibre During each stage, the broken warp threads are mended by twisting the two ends together. In a good season, when there are regular orders, they make a set of warps at least four times a week and each person earns around Rs.150 per warp. In the afternoon, they go back to weaving. Sizing is a very important process as it strengthens the warp threads and when done properly, it becomes easier for the weaver to weave.
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The warp is then transferred to the loom. The weavers continue to work on the pit loom, which is comfortable for the weaver and more conducive for weaving the delicate handspun warp. Threads of the new warp are twisted and joined to the existing warp threads on the loom, which takes a day and is mostly done by women. A bamboo reed and cotton heels are used for handspun or delicate thread warps. The craftsman takes a couple of days to make a bamboo reed.
Presently, handspun yarn cannot be used as a warp in power-loom production; hence the use of handspun can help create a distinctive identity for handloom fabrics.
