TAANG: Braided camel belt

The Meghwal community at Kuran used to braid camel belts, taang, for the Maldharis living in Pachchham and Banni. The Maldharis love their camels and take great pleasure in adorning them. Most often the Maldharis would spin the rope in their free time, while grazing cattl and take this material to the artisan to make them a camel belt. Often the Maldharis themselves create the braided taang.

These four-inch-wide belts were six to seven feet in length and were created using the ply-split braiding technique, with goat hair in natural shades of white and black. The hair would be sorted for colour and then hand spun. Spinning for braiding is most important as unlike weaving where some variation in yarn works well, the yarn for taang needs to be highly twisted and very even. Four ply yarn of black and four ply of white are twisted together to make a tight rope, which is used for braiding.

The most interesting feature of the densely braided taang is that the pattern created in white on one surface is in black on the reverse. Two-layered interlacing is created with the two coloured cords, where each cord alternately splits and is split. It works like a double cloth, as while braiding, the flat wooden needle is inserted in the rope to lift only the white thread to create the patterns. Complex motifs can be created using this technique which is very time consuming, requiring skill and immense patience. Depending on the intricacy of the pattern, a taang can take a few weeks to braid.

There are now only a few artisans, like Tejsinh Danabhai, who continue this tradition. The belts he creates are too expensive for the Maldharis to buy today. This craft survives as an art form, supported by museums and tourists visiting their homes.

view: 0 Categories: Kutch By: Bandhejstore

About the Author

Archana Shah

Archana Shah

Archana Shah graduated from the National Institute of Design (NID) in 1980. Soon after graduating from NID, she travelled to remote corners of the country to study, understand and experience the vast variety of weaving, dyeing, printing, embroidery and ornamentation techniques practised by different communities.

This proved to be a very enriching journey, and the unique skills of the people of various regions, their distinctive colour palettes, and rich design vocabulary became the base for all her future work.

In 1985, Archana started a clothing company, BANDHEJ, a label influenced by the traditional textiles and craft skills, created for Indian women, with a very Indian sensibility. Today, Bandhej is a recognised brand, with a chain of stores in Ahmedabad, Mumbai, Bangalore, Delhi, Kolkata, Pune and Cochin.

Apart from this, she has designed costumes for a few feature films such as Bhavni Bhavai, Mirch Masala, Hun, Hunshi, Hunsilal and costumes for theatre. 1985 – 1997 she also worked on Festival of India inaugurations at Paris, Moscow, Leningrad and Tashkent to design architectural textile installations to create an Indian mood.

More recently she has published a book - SHIFTING SANDS, Kutch: A Land in Transition. The book is a personal journey of discovery and about her association of over 30 years with the land, people and their craft.

view: 0 Categories: Kutch By: Bandhejstore

About the Author

Archana Shah

Archana Shah

Archana Shah graduated from the National Institute of Design (NID) in 1980. Soon after graduating from NID, she travelled to remote corners of the country to study, understand and experience the vast variety of weaving, dyeing, printing, embroidery and ornamentation techniques practised by different communities.

This proved to be a very enriching journey, and the unique skills of the people of various regions, their distinctive colour palettes, and rich design vocabulary became the base for all her future work.

In 1985, Archana started a clothing company, BANDHEJ, a label influenced by the traditional textiles and craft skills, created for Indian women, with a very Indian sensibility. Today, Bandhej is a recognised brand, with a chain of stores in Ahmedabad, Mumbai, Bangalore, Delhi, Kolkata, Pune and Cochin.

Apart from this, she has designed costumes for a few feature films such as Bhavni Bhavai, Mirch Masala, Hun, Hunshi, Hunsilal and costumes for theatre. 1985 – 1997 she also worked on Festival of India inaugurations at Paris, Moscow, Leningrad and Tashkent to design architectural textile installations to create an Indian mood.

More recently she has published a book - SHIFTING SANDS, Kutch: A Land in Transition. The book is a personal journey of discovery and about her association of over 30 years with the land, people and their craft.